In this publication8 photos · 2 videos
Through the Wadden Sea. Part 8. Norderney – Lauwersoog
A dangerous sandbank
10 August 2025. Left at the start of the ebb, 7.13am. Navionics showed 1.5m over the bank between the islands, less than my draught. I hoped for at least another metre of water by arrival.
At the bank, north-westerly eighteen knots, waves 1.5m, watched on the sounder. All attention on the numbers: twice, only ninety centimetres beneath the keel. Through, I could breathe and send Kostya for more sleep.
Towards the Netherlands
I wanted Lauwersoog directly, without turning into the Ems or Delfzijl. North to the TSS, then a course for Schiermonnikoog. For three hours, the angle wouldn’t work: only seven miles towards our destination. On the second attempt, the angle came right. We could sail straight to the Netherlands.
Kostya returned. I gave him the course and lookout, and for the first time let myself rest at sea. Usually always on watch, I trusted the boat and went below for an hour. Odd feelings: creaking, motion, noise, no sense of safety. Sleep came anyway. Back out as we passed a wind farm.
Approaching Schiermonnikoog
Near shore, sails furled, engine on. The flood was just beginning, depths changing. Eyes on the sounder again. The chart explicitly warned that depths were variable and caution needed.
At nine, outside the lock. Seventy miles, fourteen hours. Tried VHF, phone, gate button, even climbed to the cabin. Nothing. We rafted beside a yacht at the nearby marina instead.
A Dutch discovery
Our Dutch neighbour was friendly and funny. I complained about the lock. He recommended Waterkaarten: inland-waterway charts across Europe. Enter boat dimensions and it routes for bridges and locks, each with opening hours, VHF and phone. Installed, registered: a real key to Dutch canals. Fixed hours, usually seven to seven.
First Dutch night
No harbourmaster. €23 through Blue Water App, then facilities code on screen. Plenty of showers and toilets, unlimited water and power. After the long day, a hot shower felt luxurious. At last, an undisturbed night’s sleep.
#passage
A dangerous sandbank
10 August 2025. Left at the start of the ebb, 7.13am. Navionics showed 1.5m over the bank between the islands, less than my draught. I hoped for at least another metre of water by arrival.
At the bank, north-westerly eighteen knots, waves 1.5m, watched on the sounder. All attention on the numbers: twice, only ninety centimetres beneath the keel. Through, I could breathe and send Kostya for more sleep.
Towards the Netherlands
I wanted Lauwersoog directly, without turning into the Ems or Delfzijl. North to the TSS, then a course for Schiermonnikoog. For three hours, the angle wouldn’t work: only seven miles towards our destination. On the second attempt, the angle came right. We could sail straight to the Netherlands.
Kostya returned. I gave him the course and lookout, and for the first time let myself rest at sea. Usually always on watch, I trusted the boat and went below for an hour. Odd feelings: creaking, motion, noise, no sense of safety. Sleep came anyway. Back out as we passed a wind farm.
Approaching Schiermonnikoog
Near shore, sails furled, engine on. The flood was just beginning, depths changing. Eyes on the sounder again. The chart explicitly warned that depths were variable and caution needed.
At nine, outside the lock. Seventy miles, fourteen hours. Tried VHF, phone, gate button, even climbed to the cabin. Nothing. We rafted beside a yacht at the nearby marina instead.
A Dutch discovery
Our Dutch neighbour was friendly and funny. I complained about the lock. He recommended Waterkaarten: inland-waterway charts across Europe. Enter boat dimensions and it routes for bridges and locks, each with opening hours, VHF and phone. Installed, registered: a real key to Dutch canals. Fixed hours, usually seven to seven.
First Dutch night
No harbourmaster. €23 through Blue Water App, then facilities code on screen. Plenty of showers and toilets, unlimited water and power. After the long day, a hot shower felt luxurious. At last, an undisturbed night’s sleep.
#passage
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