Through the Wadden Sea. Part 4. Cuxhaven – Heligoland

Planning
7 August 2025. We’d waited impatiently: after three days stuck in port, finally going to sea. Not an easy forecast: south-westerly to 24 knots, fighting it all the way. Offshore, currents rarely exceed 1.5 knots; near shore, three to five against you is possible.

From Cuxhaven we needed the ebb, clearing fifteen miles of shoals before the flood. The difficulty was timing: first ebb at 1.46am, next only at 1.49pm. Leave before five to clear the Elbe in time. Approaching Heligoland was simpler: any time, without strong streams or drying marina approaches.

The passage
Cast off at 4.45. Fifteen miles by eight, a strict target. Unexpectedly, almost no wind, mirror sea. Engine on. Plotter 9.8 knots, log only five. Nearly ten over ground: a record for «Rassvet» . A pity the current, rather than the engine, deserved the credit.

At eight sharp, The Elbe was astern. Wind rose, waves to 1.5m, their crests clear on the depth sounder. Second reef in main, first in genoa. Fifteen miles on one tack, pressing hull and sails into the waves. Eventually, a lump in my throat, seasickness, attention reduced to simple acts: breathe deeply, wind on my face, hold the course.

Thirty-seven miles in seven hours.

The island
Heligoland appears suddenly: red rock growing from a grey-green horizon, a beacon from another world. A particular excitement approaching it. Once a British naval base, later transferred to Germany. Now a quiet resort with unique wildlife, no cars, sea smells and bird calls. After the waves, another rhythm of life.

Berthing
We approached Heligoland from the south. Downwind to furl the genoa, then head to wind to stow the main. Always an adventure in those waves. First, the southern harbour: forty-foot-plus yachts rafted two or three deep. Better try the north harbour for boats under ten metres. Right decision: plenty of space.

On «Rassvet» there’s no midships cleat, making a spring awkward. My solution: line from pontoon through the jib car, onto the winch and into the cleat. Convenient and reliable.

Payment only five to six in the evening, €30. Neighbours gave us facilities codes while we waited for the harbourmaster. Then off to explore.

#passage