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The passage

Through the Wadden Sea. Part 1. Kiel – Rendsburg

1 August 2025 began a new route into the North Sea towards the Wadden Islands. Marina neighbours said: ‘We don’t go there. Too dangerous.’But testing myself appealed more than listening to others’ fears.

What is the Wadden Sea?
The Wadden Sea is the shallows, sandbanks and islands along Denmark, Germany and the Netherlands. Everything changes by the hour: morning lagoon, desert by lunchtime. A subject of its own for sailors. Channels open only with the tide; misjudge time or course, and you’re aground with a long wait for water, while waves pound the boat against the bottom. No wonder it’s UNESCO-listed: wild nature and a constantly moving sea make a unique combination.

First canal miles
At noon, out of Kiel. Canal operators on VHF twelve. Already my fifth lock transit this season; familiar, no surprises. Then towards Rendsburg where Konstantin would join that evening.

Twenty-five knots of headwind and rain seemed timed for the worst moments. But calm canal water allowed full speed. Green banks, gulls and cormorants overhead. Frequent fishermen to avoid; I kept wondering who had priority, motorboat or man with rod.

The blue-line town
To Rendsburg about twenty-one miles, five hours. A straight line on the map; rain on deck, woodland smells and passing ships in memory. Café, hot food, Konstantin arriving by bus from Hamburg.

That evening in Rendsburg a town of thirty thousand: old houses, bridges, waterfronts. A blue line through the centre leads past all the sights. Like following a chart route into the middle of history. A simple walk, but details make a place memorable.

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