In this publication10 photos
The Kiel Canal
2 August 2025. Leaving Rendsburg at 7.30. Huge repair docks, then the transporter bridge. I wanted to see it work, but its light was red.
Later, an odd change: emerald water became burgundy. Past halfway, it felt like the first sign of the North Sea approaching. Dense green vegetation against dark water looked striking.
At the locks by two. Unlike the eastern end, two pairs here, for large and small vessels. About an hour’s wait. Green first: barges in. Then white for yachts. The operator waits patiently for everyone before closing. At the far end, boats leave in order, first yacht first.
The Elbe
Straight out, a strong westerly hit. Low water, with the flood beginning east towards Hamburg. Waves to 1.5m. A hard welcome; no point fighting it directly. We went east with the stream. Genoa up, eight knots, rare for this hull. Evening arrival in Glückstadt.
Interesting berthing: current so strong, we stood still at low revs. Turned and ferry-glided almost by the textbook. Harbourmaster ashore: €12 a night. Fifty miles in ten hours.
An unexpected meeting
A Russian-speaking sailor on the next boat. His engine had died outside the canal; they’d berthed under sail. Awaiting a mechanic, he chatted. He’d wintered in Lübeck near my marina and repaired the saildrive. Something clicked: last winter, I’d recommended a workshop and nearby marinas to someone. I asked: ‘Is that your friend, by any chance?’ He nodded: ‘Yes, we sail together. He’s just left for Berlin.’Hard to believe for a second. The sea seems to arrange coincidences to remind us how small this circle is.
A town of good fortune
Glückstadt is small, cosy and historic. Founded in 1617 as a port for Hamburg it retains its old trading-town character: narrow streets, gabled houses, canals. Many business names begin with Glück, ‘happiness’ or ‘luck’. Waterfront, old centre, a park once the royal gardens. Dinner at the doner shop to finish.
Lessons
Tidal waters begin immediately outside the locks. Take them seriously: three- to four-knot streams, two-metre waves. Before leaving the canal, check forecast and tide tables, choose timing and destination. Lucky we thought to head for Glückstadt, but chance isn’t a plan in waters like these.
#passage
2 August 2025. Leaving Rendsburg at 7.30. Huge repair docks, then the transporter bridge. I wanted to see it work, but its light was red.
Later, an odd change: emerald water became burgundy. Past halfway, it felt like the first sign of the North Sea approaching. Dense green vegetation against dark water looked striking.
At the locks by two. Unlike the eastern end, two pairs here, for large and small vessels. About an hour’s wait. Green first: barges in. Then white for yachts. The operator waits patiently for everyone before closing. At the far end, boats leave in order, first yacht first.
The Elbe
Straight out, a strong westerly hit. Low water, with the flood beginning east towards Hamburg. Waves to 1.5m. A hard welcome; no point fighting it directly. We went east with the stream. Genoa up, eight knots, rare for this hull. Evening arrival in Glückstadt.
Interesting berthing: current so strong, we stood still at low revs. Turned and ferry-glided almost by the textbook. Harbourmaster ashore: €12 a night. Fifty miles in ten hours.
An unexpected meeting
A Russian-speaking sailor on the next boat. His engine had died outside the canal; they’d berthed under sail. Awaiting a mechanic, he chatted. He’d wintered in Lübeck near my marina and repaired the saildrive. Something clicked: last winter, I’d recommended a workshop and nearby marinas to someone. I asked: ‘Is that your friend, by any chance?’ He nodded: ‘Yes, we sail together. He’s just left for Berlin.’Hard to believe for a second. The sea seems to arrange coincidences to remind us how small this circle is.
A town of good fortune
Glückstadt is small, cosy and historic. Founded in 1617 as a port for Hamburg it retains its old trading-town character: narrow streets, gabled houses, canals. Many business names begin with Glück, ‘happiness’ or ‘luck’. Waterfront, old centre, a park once the royal gardens. Dinner at the doner shop to finish.
Lessons
Tidal waters begin immediately outside the locks. Take them seriously: three- to four-knot streams, two-metre waves. Before leaving the canal, check forecast and tide tables, choose timing and destination. Lucky we thought to head for Glückstadt, but chance isn’t a plan in waters like these.
#passage
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