Maintenance story / Rassvet · Ohlson 29
New cockpit cover: get to the oil seal
A stern tube seal leak led to the fabrication of a new removable cockpit cover. Matrix, plywood, fiberglass, painting and fittings - in two consecutive entries.
Entry dated October 24, 2025
Remove the die and make a cover
The seal was difficult to service through the old access. The author removed the floor mold, fabricated and laminated a new cover, then prepared it for painting.
All stage pictures9 photos
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A new cockpit sole
As usual, every voyage leaves something to repair. Water had begun to leak past the stern-tube seal, almost impossible to replace without removing the engine. The answer: a new cockpit panel with an access opening for the seal and gearbox.
Taking the cockpit shape
First, a mould. Masking tape over the sole, double-sided tape over that, then polyethylene film. A layer cake: protection below, easy release above.
Three pieces of glass cloth cut to cockpit size, wetted with epoxy and laid successively. A strong cast left for a day, transparent and perfectly following the sole’s shape.
The core
Next day, removed it carefully, trimmed excess with a multitool and levelled the edges.
A sheet of 12mm marine plywood, bonded with waterproof BFU 100 adhesive. Cut the blank, sanded both sides thoroughly.
The mould wasn’t perfect, so a sandwich: about 400ml epoxy thickened with cotton fibres, spread over both surfaces, plywood pressed against GRP. Batteries, dumbbells, toolboxes: anything heavy on top. Another day’s cure.
Weights off, edges bevelled forty-five degrees, sanded, then three glass-cloth layers over everything, sealing the plywood inside. Found bubbles where I hadn’t expelled all the air. Cut them open, released the air and patched with cotton-thickened epoxy.
Again, I’d choose 3D Core XPS instead of plywood: lighter, more accurate shape. But plywood added solidity; material costs were similar.
Protection
Glass cloth and epoxy need respirator, goggles, gloves and long sleeves.
I thought ‘only five minutes’ meant no gear needed. Then learnt how wrong that was.
After sanding, itching everywhere, burning skin, sand under the eyelids. Glass dust in my nose, sandpaper in my throat. Days of coughing, weakness and dizziness. Baths, litres of water, sleep as after a storm.
Now I know: unprotected composite work guarantees suffering. Don’t repeat my mistake.
Finishing
Once cured, finishing work.
Trimmed, sanded, drilled two handle holes, degreased with alcohol and applied two-part Epifanes primer. In spring, I’d painted with a one-part system and disliked its abrasion resistance. Time to try two-part.
A coat every day, three in all, no intermediate sanding. Turned over and repeated underneath. 750ml only just enough.
Glossy, strong, almost factory-finished.
As usual, every voyage leaves something to repair. Water had begun to leak past the stern-tube seal, almost impossible to replace without removing the engine. The answer: a new cockpit panel with an access opening for the seal and gearbox.
Taking the cockpit shape
First, a mould. Masking tape over the sole, double-sided tape over that, then polyethylene film. A layer cake: protection below, easy release above.
Three pieces of glass cloth cut to cockpit size, wetted with epoxy and laid successively. A strong cast left for a day, transparent and perfectly following the sole’s shape.
The core
Next day, removed it carefully, trimmed excess with a multitool and levelled the edges.
A sheet of 12mm marine plywood, bonded with waterproof BFU 100 adhesive. Cut the blank, sanded both sides thoroughly.
The mould wasn’t perfect, so a sandwich: about 400ml epoxy thickened with cotton fibres, spread over both surfaces, plywood pressed against GRP. Batteries, dumbbells, toolboxes: anything heavy on top. Another day’s cure.
Weights off, edges bevelled forty-five degrees, sanded, then three glass-cloth layers over everything, sealing the plywood inside. Found bubbles where I hadn’t expelled all the air. Cut them open, released the air and patched with cotton-thickened epoxy.
Again, I’d choose 3D Core XPS instead of plywood: lighter, more accurate shape. But plywood added solidity; material costs were similar.
Protection
Glass cloth and epoxy need respirator, goggles, gloves and long sleeves.
I thought ‘only five minutes’ meant no gear needed. Then learnt how wrong that was.
After sanding, itching everywhere, burning skin, sand under the eyelids. Glass dust in my nose, sandpaper in my throat. Days of coughing, weakness and dizziness. Baths, litres of water, sleep as after a storm.
Now I know: unprotected composite work guarantees suffering. Don’t repeat my mistake.
Finishing
Once cured, finishing work.
Trimmed, sanded, drilled two handle holes, degreased with alcohol and applied two-part Epifanes primer. In spring, I’d painted with a one-part system and disliked its abrasion resistance. Time to try two-part.
A coat every day, three in all, no intermediate sanding. Turned over and repeated underneath. 750ml only just enough.
Glossy, strong, almost factory-finished.
Entry dated October 24, 2025
Fittings, sealing and installation
Non-slip coating, handles, locks and EPDM all around. After fitting - cutout in the cockpit, protection of the ends and installation of the finished cover.
All stage pictures10 photos
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(Continued)
Hardware and seals
Paint dry, masked and sanded the KiwiGrip areas. This non-slip finish had already survived a season aboard and performed flawlessly.
A day later, fitted the latches with Sikaflex-295 UV, then soft EPDM seal round the edge.
Ready to fit!
Installation
At the marina, trial fit, marked the cut-out and carefully made the opening in the sole.
Everything in place: pure pleasure. Perfect fit.
Passing technicians stopped to inspect and praise it.
One suggested bonding the cut-out pieces underneath as guides. Grigory suggested rounding the opening’s corners to prevent chipping. Another useful point: epoxy-coat all exposed edges.
The lid clicked into place: that satisfying boat-repair moment when everything finally makes sense.
Tools
• Oscillating multitool, jigsaw, or angle grinder with metal-cutting disc
• Sander, P80, abrasive pad for corners
• Short-pile rollers, mixing containers
• Respirator, gloves, goggles, long sleeves, wet wipes
Materials
– 2 × €19: POFET 52mm 316 stainless-steel locking handles
– 1 × €21: 10 × 15mm EPDM seal, five metres
– 1 × €46: BFU 100 12mm marine plywood, 120 × 50cm
– 1 × €24: 300g/m² glass cloth, five square metres
– 1 × €30: two-part epoxy and hardener, 2.25kg
– 1 × €15: polyethylene film, 2 × 6m
– 1 × €25: rollers, brushes, mixing cups and stirring sticks
– 1 × €20: cotton fibres for epoxy, 500g
– 1 × €60: Epifanes two-part polyurethane boat paint, 750g
– 1 × €45: Epifanes two-part polyurethane primer, 750g
– 1 × €25: Sikaflex-295 UV marine adhesive/sealant
– 1 × €70: KiwiGrip, one litre
– 1 × €5: 50mm masking tape
– 1 × €5: 50mm double-sided tape
Total: €410
The result
A month’s work, dearer than expected, but worth it.
Easy access to the stern-tube seal and engine’s rear, plus experience with epoxy, glass cloth and patience.
I started thinking it was just a lid. Now I think I could build boats.
The next project will surely be faster, neater and perhaps less eventful.
Though without adventures, wouldn’t a boat be boring?
#maintenance
Hardware and seals
Paint dry, masked and sanded the KiwiGrip areas. This non-slip finish had already survived a season aboard and performed flawlessly.
A day later, fitted the latches with Sikaflex-295 UV, then soft EPDM seal round the edge.
Ready to fit!
Installation
At the marina, trial fit, marked the cut-out and carefully made the opening in the sole.
Everything in place: pure pleasure. Perfect fit.
Passing technicians stopped to inspect and praise it.
One suggested bonding the cut-out pieces underneath as guides. Grigory suggested rounding the opening’s corners to prevent chipping. Another useful point: epoxy-coat all exposed edges.
The lid clicked into place: that satisfying boat-repair moment when everything finally makes sense.
Tools
• Oscillating multitool, jigsaw, or angle grinder with metal-cutting disc
• Sander, P80, abrasive pad for corners
• Short-pile rollers, mixing containers
• Respirator, gloves, goggles, long sleeves, wet wipes
Materials
– 2 × €19: POFET 52mm 316 stainless-steel locking handles
– 1 × €21: 10 × 15mm EPDM seal, five metres
– 1 × €46: BFU 100 12mm marine plywood, 120 × 50cm
– 1 × €24: 300g/m² glass cloth, five square metres
– 1 × €30: two-part epoxy and hardener, 2.25kg
– 1 × €15: polyethylene film, 2 × 6m
– 1 × €25: rollers, brushes, mixing cups and stirring sticks
– 1 × €20: cotton fibres for epoxy, 500g
– 1 × €60: Epifanes two-part polyurethane boat paint, 750g
– 1 × €45: Epifanes two-part polyurethane primer, 750g
– 1 × €25: Sikaflex-295 UV marine adhesive/sealant
– 1 × €70: KiwiGrip, one litre
– 1 × €5: 50mm masking tape
– 1 × €5: 50mm double-sided tape
Total: €410
The result
A month’s work, dearer than expected, but worth it.
Easy access to the stern-tube seal and engine’s rear, plus experience with epoxy, glass cloth and patience.
I started thinking it was just a lid. Now I think I could build boats.
The next project will surely be faster, neater and perhaps less eventful.
Though without adventures, wouldn’t a boat be boring?
#maintenance
According to the last entry
How the story ended
The new cover is installed with locks and seal. The technological hole provides access to the oil seal and gearbox.
Open last stage ↗