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3 October 2023. After 496 nautical miles offshore without internet, averaging 14.5 knots, Norway greeted us with the beautiful rocky approach to Stavanger. We greeted it over full English breakfasts and coffee, glued to phones newly connected to 5G.
We stepped ashore at eight, the moment the gangway touched land. But we’d forgotten an important fact: Norwegians are lazy sods. Some shops and museums open at ten, others at noon, sometimes even three. By ten, our legs were already tired.
Stavanger was very cosy: museums and parks, a large old town of wooden houses and cafés. One museum ticket gets you into all the others. The maritime museum on the waterfront has an old shop counter and sail loft. Near the liner were a printing museum, a canning museum and a historic house. A little farther on, we visited the city museum, with its many exhibits. Across the waterfront was an incredibly beautiful — and equally boring — petroleum museum. Banksy admirers had generously covered the buildings in graffiti.
The drawback was having to choose: explore the town or take a trip to Lysefjord. We didn’t have time for the parks either, spending longer in museums. Modern architecture also makes the centre look more like Chita than a fairy-tale Scandinavian town. The Germans are better at architecture.
Departure at six sharp. The weather had deteriorated badly: winds reached 40 knots. The pilot boat escorting us leapt up, then buried its bow in the waves. For the first time, we felt the ship move. Much like an ordinary yacht’s motion in good weather.
#cruise
We stepped ashore at eight, the moment the gangway touched land. But we’d forgotten an important fact: Norwegians are lazy sods. Some shops and museums open at ten, others at noon, sometimes even three. By ten, our legs were already tired.
Stavanger was very cosy: museums and parks, a large old town of wooden houses and cafés. One museum ticket gets you into all the others. The maritime museum on the waterfront has an old shop counter and sail loft. Near the liner were a printing museum, a canning museum and a historic house. A little farther on, we visited the city museum, with its many exhibits. Across the waterfront was an incredibly beautiful — and equally boring — petroleum museum. Banksy admirers had generously covered the buildings in graffiti.
The drawback was having to choose: explore the town or take a trip to Lysefjord. We didn’t have time for the parks either, spending longer in museums. Modern architecture also makes the centre look more like Chita than a fairy-tale Scandinavian town. The Germans are better at architecture.
Departure at six sharp. The weather had deteriorated badly: winds reached 40 knots. The pilot boat escorting us leapt up, then buried its bow in the waves. For the first time, we felt the ship move. Much like an ordinary yacht’s motion in good weather.
#cruise
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