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The passage

Aurora. Part 4. Comfort at sea and nerves in harbour

Aurora. Part 4. Comfort at sea and nerves in harbour

Back to the fuel berth


On 6 September 2026, I waited until two in the afternoon, when the forecast said the gusts should ease to 25 knots, and left Klintholm. On starting, the engine produced a huge white cloud.

Under full genoa, I was making about 4.5 knots. But the wind began to shift awkwardly, and for roughly half the passage, about four hours, I motor-sailed at 1,400 rpm.

Having to start the engine so early was already making me anxious. A light headwind was forecast for the night, which would mean more motoring. I decided to stop in Gedser on the way and arrived around midnight.

A boat was already occupying the fuel berth, with everyone aboard asleep. I was annoyed at first, then remembered I had done exactly the same in Klintholm. I rafted alongside, passed the fuel nozzle across and topped up with 6.5 litres. Consumption at low revs seemed more encouraging.

The forecast was for no wind until morning. I decided to get five hours’ sleep. On 7 September, I left at 06:30.

Performance or comfort

It took ten hours to cover the 39 miles to Heiligenhafen: sailing as close to the wind as I could, with the engine helping for most of the way. It felt as though I had traded Rassvet’s sailing performance for Aurora’s comfort.

In waves of a metre to a metre and a half, I rose and fell gently, almost as though we were in a swell. Rassvet would have been slamming and bouncing around in those conditions.

Even in 20 knots of wind with the genoa fully unfurled, the heel stayed steady at no more than 20 degrees. On Rassvet, I would have expected about 30 degrees, with another five degrees of movement either way. I would have been seriously considering rolling away some genoa. Here, the thought never arose. If anything, it felt as though I needed more sail.

In that wind, Rassvet would make 5.5–6.5 knots under her 140% genoa alone, which was why I didn’t use the mainsail very often. The boats and their sails are similar in size. On Aurora, I was delighted whenever the GPS showed even 4.8 knots. It felt as though I had lost up to a knot and a half. That is far too much. I hope the bottom is simply fouled; we’ll see when she comes out in the autumn. I still need to try the mainsail.

Two rudders

The tiller feels less responsive, but the boat holds her course better. The electric tiller pilot spends long stretches holding it amidships, making only small corrections. In short head seas, though, when a wave knocks the boat off course, it struggles to keep up. Aurora is slow to respond to the helm.

It also feels as though the tiller pilot runs out of travel. I’ll need to get the tape measure out and check the installation. When a steady helm angle is needed to hold the course, it has a hard time. I suspect sail balance plays a part too: I’m sailing under one large genoa.

But Aurora has a useful trick. Her windvane steering has its own rudder blade. I secure that at a slight angle, and the main tiller can come back amidships. That makes life easier for the electric tiller pilot. The two-rudder arrangement works very well.

Three attempts

After a working week in Heiligenhafen, there was still the passage to Kiel, another 40 miles or so. First, I filled up. By then, it felt as though I was refuelling Aurora in every marina, just to be sure I wouldn’t run out.

I wanted to hoist the mainsail at last, but found a broken end stop on the mainsheet traveller. So it was genoa alone again. Early in the passage, I reached 5.5 knots and was absurdly pleased.

Off Putlos, a naval vessel drew level and told me over its loudspeaker to alter course north: there was live firing until 12:30. About halfway through the passage, the wind died. I started the engine again.

Grigory met me in Kiel. Just as well: I couldn’t get into the berth between the piles on the first, second or third attempt. I couldn’t turn tightly enough, while a light crosswind quietly berthed the boat against the pier for me. Rassvet could spin on the spot like a ballerina. I need to get used to this. Right now, berthing is what frightens me most about Aurora.

Grisha assured me it wasn’t as bad as it felt. He pointed out how much momentum the boat carries and noticed that whenever I looked towards the bow, I reduced the tiller angle. He joked that the nerve from my head to my hand was short and pulled my hand round after my head. I’m grateful he noticed. I hope that really is the reason. I’ll practise.

#passage
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