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Breakfast next day: flatbreads, butter, brie and Kalles roe paste. So intensely salty that sweet tea balanced it surprisingly well.
Maritime museum afterwards. On Grigory’s advice, a novel covering 150 years of Marstal life. Centuries of maritime history: models, paintings, objects, films, people for whom the sea was work.
He whetted my appetite with stories. Local sailors supposedly set off to capture Eckernförde. Not quite as planned: defeated, captured, locked in the church for lack of prison space. Weeks later, told to sail themselves to Kiel, which definitely had a prison.
Prinsebroen afterwards, six lightly smoked seafoods. More town, evening pork steaks in two marinades. Waiting for wind became part of the route.
No rush
Sunday, 17 May 2026, return to Kiel. Southerly turning east only near noon; an early start pointless. Ten o’clock, avoiding an hour won then lost on a poor angle.
Ninety minutes refuelling. Offshore, sails up, wind now allowing Kiel directly. Waiting rewarded: no immediate extra tacks or bad angle.
Same destination, different courses
Differences showed immediately. I called Meerbär and suggested my course, 122. Later, Grigory explained waves prevented holding it; he needed about 140. Rassvet cut through more easily with her weight and length, while Meerbär needed a kinder angle.
We separated gradually. Same destination, different workable courses. Small on a chart, significant afloat: each boat chooses what it can hold without unnecessary struggle.
Two miles apart, Meerbär vanished from AIS, still visible to me. Antenna, settings or reception? Unknown. AIS is convenient while working; visual lookout remains essential.
A quiet finish
Steady, almost monotonous. Tea, book, periodic course, wind, sail and companion checks. The right ending after the previous days: a long, peaceful run home.
In seven hours, Rassvet covered thirty-five miles, berthing in Kiel’s golden sunset. Once stowed, Meerbär arrived and took me across the fjord. More discussion of decisions, different boat behaviour, and why one wind doesn’t make identical passages.
It began with Biltema. Became three days, two boats, changing winds, Danish food, a museum, supplies, and a rare view of my own sailing from another AIS track as well as my cockpit.
#passage
Maritime museum afterwards. On Grigory’s advice, a novel covering 150 years of Marstal life. Centuries of maritime history: models, paintings, objects, films, people for whom the sea was work.
He whetted my appetite with stories. Local sailors supposedly set off to capture Eckernförde. Not quite as planned: defeated, captured, locked in the church for lack of prison space. Weeks later, told to sail themselves to Kiel, which definitely had a prison.
Prinsebroen afterwards, six lightly smoked seafoods. More town, evening pork steaks in two marinades. Waiting for wind became part of the route.
No rush
Sunday, 17 May 2026, return to Kiel. Southerly turning east only near noon; an early start pointless. Ten o’clock, avoiding an hour won then lost on a poor angle.
Ninety minutes refuelling. Offshore, sails up, wind now allowing Kiel directly. Waiting rewarded: no immediate extra tacks or bad angle.
Same destination, different courses
Differences showed immediately. I called Meerbär and suggested my course, 122. Later, Grigory explained waves prevented holding it; he needed about 140. Rassvet cut through more easily with her weight and length, while Meerbär needed a kinder angle.
We separated gradually. Same destination, different workable courses. Small on a chart, significant afloat: each boat chooses what it can hold without unnecessary struggle.
Two miles apart, Meerbär vanished from AIS, still visible to me. Antenna, settings or reception? Unknown. AIS is convenient while working; visual lookout remains essential.
A quiet finish
Steady, almost monotonous. Tea, book, periodic course, wind, sail and companion checks. The right ending after the previous days: a long, peaceful run home.
In seven hours, Rassvet covered thirty-five miles, berthing in Kiel’s golden sunset. Once stowed, Meerbär arrived and took me across the fjord. More discussion of decisions, different boat behaviour, and why one wind doesn’t make identical passages.
It began with Biltema. Became three days, two boats, changing winds, Danish food, a museum, supplies, and a rare view of my own sailing from another AIS track as well as my cockpit.
#passage
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