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The passage

Fåborg – Ærøskøbing

Day three. Last night, we studied the charts after Windy forecast a south-easterly. We couldn’t sail to Rudkøbing as originally planned. We agreed to change the route to Ærøskøbing, then Bagenkop, as Marstal was too close.

Up at 5.50am. Breakfast had changed: the same three-in-one coffee, but now two bowls for granola and milk. Making a flask of tea with breakfast became a tradition. Shipping Forecast entered in the log.

28.08.2024, 0321 UTC, Belts and Sound
SE, Bft 3→4, for a time increasing a little,
sea 1 meter


Departure at 7.30. One reef in both sails, with the option to unfurl more genoa. Into the wind all day. Fun playing with the mainsheet traveller, judging how far we could turn, competing with other boats on speed and pointing, and squeezing out every little bit of performance.

About halfway, we hove to for lunch: smoked salmon, rye bread and remoulade, made into sandwiches. We drifted towards shore at 1–1.5 knots, so continued after half an hour. Later, I realised we could have deployed the sea anchor.

Into the marina at 2.30pm. Wind up to twenty knots, twisting the yacht round inside the berth. Difficult berthing. Anton tried to put on the stern line; it fell in the water. He looked at it awkwardly, calmly turned and went forward to secure the bow, leaving it sinking. I didn’t know how to react: the engine was still in slow ahead and could catch the rope. I asked him to retrieve it before going forward.

Ærøskøbing was fantastically beautiful, historic and compact. Unlimited showers and Wi-Fi in the marina. Beside the showers, a twenty-hole minigolf course; a ball cost just a couple of euros at the nearby bar.

Smoked herring and potato salad at a nearby restaurant for dinner. I spent the rest of the evening reading.

Twenty-seven miles. Track here.

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