Background
How to get to an RYA practice
I started editing a video, but it was taking too long. So I’ll tell the story in photographs: my RYA Day Skipper practical course with Kabestan, in the tidal waters of the Solent. The Solent? Southern England. In the first Harry Potter book, Uncle Vernon’s sister Marge holidayed on the Isle of Wight. The stretch of the English Channel between that island and mainland Britain is called the Solent. Kabestan?
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The Solent? Southern England. In the first Harry Potter book, Uncle Vernon’s sister Marge holidayed on the Isle of Wight. The stretch of the English Channel between that island and mainland Britain is called the Solent.
Kabestan? I took their radio operator’s exam in 2017 and their theory exam in Moscow in 2018. The theory teaching was strong. I still remember most of it four years later.
We’d agreed on April 2022. I applied for a visa on 18 February. From the 24th, though, the embassy seemed to stop functioning. Nothing on the Vinsky travel forum either. On 26 June, a letter arrived saying April had passed, there was no reason to grant me a visa, and I couldn’t appeal.
The school changed the dates to November and wrote a supporting letter. I reapplied on 12 July, paying the fee with a colleague’s Armenian bank card and adding that I also wanted to see London and visit friends. On 26 September, the visa was in my passport.
#training #kabestan
Road
Road to England
4 November 2022, 1am. Up, a bite to eat, dressed and off for the bus. A 30-minute walk, an hour’s wait, a 90-minute ride to Hamburg Airport. Check-in, security, passport control, departures, then a two-hour flight to London. At Heathrow passport control, they asked why I had two passports, why my visa had been refused in spring, what I’d be doing, whether I’d be paid, and when I’d leave. In the terminal, I changed money and bought a National Express coach ticket.
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At Heathrow passport control, they asked why I had two passports, why my visa had been refused in spring, what I’d be doing, whether I’d be paid, and when I’d leave. In the terminal, I changed money and bought a National Express coach ticket. An hour’s wait.
A hundred minutes to Southampton Coach Station, then a 15-minute walk to the railway station. Trains to Hamble run hourly. I had breakfast at Starbucks and was surprised by the washbasin in the loo: separate hot and cold taps.
The train took 20 minutes. I couldn’t charge my phone: different sockets here. Palm trees flashed past the window — not what I’d expected of misty Albion. A 40-minute walk to Mercury Yacht Harbour. At noon, I was on pontoon B, berth 52, waiting for Night Owl.
Twelve carefully planned hours in all, with connections kept as short as possible. I snatched sleep wherever I could.
#training #kabestan
November 4
Meet Night Owl
All in all, the day was a bit of a waste. No lessons. We arrived, got acquainted over fish and chips in the bar, moved onto the yacht, and carried on chatting over tea. Some of the group were staying on after the berthing course; the others arrived by 7pm. Five of us in total: me from Germany, Slava from the US, Rita from Dubai, Lyosha from London, and Danila from France.
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All in all, the day was a bit of a waste. No lessons. We arrived, got acquainted over fish and chips in the bar, moved onto the yacht, and carried on chatting over tea. Some of the group were staying on after the berthing course; the others arrived by 7pm. Five of us in total: me from Germany, Slava from the US, Rita from Dubai, Lyosha from London, and Danila from France.
Yura said we would be his school’s final group. He’d already sold 15 yachts from the fleet; only Night Owl remained. Times were changing: Covid restrictions, visa and banking sanctions, pro-Kremlin attitudes among many students… The school’s 15-year story, which began when he bought his first yacht, was coming to an end.
At ten that evening, I wrapped myself in my sleeping bag and fell asleep.
#training #kabestan
November 5
Storm and activities on board
5 November 2022. Day two. Up at 6.30am, as on every day that followed. We boiled eggs and made toast, with Nutella or butter and jam. No luck with the weather. Pouring rain. Hurricane Martin was heading for England. Aubrey made it a classroom day. 9am. Yacht safety and crew briefings first. We were allocated automatic lifejackets and learnt how to service them.
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No luck with the weather. Pouring rain. Hurricane Martin was heading for England. Aubrey made it a classroom day.
9am. Yacht safety and crew briefings first. We were allocated automatic lifejackets and learnt how to service them. We spent some time on the radio, then used the charts to discuss possible routes given the weather and tides. We talked about why neither paper nor electronic charts could be trusted completely: storms constantly change the seabed and shoals. The depth sounder remains a skipper’s best friend.
1pm. Lunch. We chopped iceberg lettuce, cucumber, pepper and tomato, dressed with oil, vinegar and salt. Made cup soups, microwaved two quiches — bacon and cabbage — and shared them.
2.30pm. Aubrey got his laptop out. Meteorology slides.
6pm. End of the day. We spent six hours in the pub, where I had an excellent burger. A shower at the marina, then bed.
#training #kabestan
School day
Practice: November 6
6 November 2022. Day three. Up at 7.30am, breakfast preparations at 8.30. We tried to mask the taste of porridge made with water using honey, bread and coffee. The forecast for the week wasn’t encouraging. We’d have to sail in whatever weather we got. Danila was skipper for the day. While he planned the passage to Ocean Village Marina, we prepared the yacht: third reef and storm jib. We left at ten and headed for Southampton. Aubrey rarely came out of the cabin.
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The forecast for the week wasn’t encouraging. We’d have to sail in whatever weather we got. Danila was skipper for the day. While he planned the passage to Ocean Village Marina, we prepared the yacht: third reef and storm jib.
We left at ten and headed for Southampton. Aubrey rarely came out of the cabin. We swapped between helm and winches ourselves, trimmed the sails, and kept a lookout. Chicken pie and cup soup for lunch on the move. After seven miles, we arrived at six in the evening. We berthed in pitch darkness in only three attempts.
For dinner, we microwaved large potatoes, heated baked beans, and made a salad with iceberg lettuce, pepper, onion, cucumber, vinegar, oil, salt and pepper.
Useful websites:
– Solent weather buoy observations: https://www.bramblemet.co.uk/
– UK synoptic charts: http://weather.mailasail.com/Franks-Weather/Latest-Uk-Forecast-Charts-5-Days
#training #kabestan
Passage weather
School day
Practice: November 7
7 November 2022. Day four. Up at 7.30am. Porridge with apples and honey; Lyosha added milk. Coffee on. We began with theory, reviewing yesterday’s passage on the charts, then a lecture on SOLAS V. Alexei was appointed skipper. He had to plan a passage from Southampton to Yarmouth: 17 nautical miles, with the current but against the wind. The fallback was Cowes, about ten miles away. It was hard going. Wind 20 knots, gusting 26.
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We began with theory, reviewing yesterday’s passage on the charts, then a lecture on SOLAS V. Alexei was appointed skipper. He had to plan a passage from Southampton to Yarmouth: 17 nautical miles, with the current but against the wind. The fallback was Cowes, about ten miles away.
It was hard going. Wind 20 knots, gusting 26. We changed positions every 20–30 minutes. Aubrey heated pies and cup soups for us. Once we reached open water, conditions worsened. Peak winds reached 41–47 knots. The current was against us. Raindrops flew almost horizontally. We practised heavy-weather sailing. No time to get my phone out. At five, exhausted, we came charging under sail into Cowes Yacht Haven.
Dinner at the Anchor Inn. I had beef liver with bacon, peas and mashed potatoes, plus garlic bread with mozzarella for the table.
#training #kabestan
Passage weather
School day
Practice: November 8
8 November 2022. Day five. There were a few potatoes left from dinner. Aubrey put them in a frying pan with vegetables and eggs: shakshuka. We realised that, besides Hurricane Martin, we had spring tides to contend with. The amount of experience packed into this course is extraordinary. We walked round Cowes and looked at the princess’s cannons. The town has plenty of character, and lots of chandleries with autumn sales.
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We walked round Cowes and looked at the princess’s cannons. The town has plenty of character, and lots of chandleries with autumn sales. Back in the saloon, we had a lecture on tides.
The plan was a short passage of two or three miles to Buckler’s Hard Yacht Harbour, with Slava as skipper. It should have taken about half an hour. Another 43-knot squall made it two hours. Not quite so frightening this time.
A couple of kilometres short of the marina, we picked up a buoy and ate lasagne with salad. With the tide out, the keel was almost touching the bottom. On arrival, another couple of hours of slides on tides awaited us.
In the evening, splashing through puddles, we found the Yachtsman’s Bar. The only food was crisps, olives and chips. But we sat by the fire until closing and got thoroughly smoked.
#training #kabestan
Passage weather
School day
Practice: November 9
9 November 2022. Day six. Porridge again. Hot toast with butter and jam makes it slightly more bearable. Danila lost the coin toss and became skipper for the day. Back to Mercury Yacht Harbour. We rigged preventers for the following wind, blowing around 26 knots. Sailing off the wind was frightening at times, especially crossing the shipping channel used by large cargo vessels. On arrival, Aubrey made spaghetti bolognese.
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Danila lost the coin toss and became skipper for the day. Back to Mercury Yacht Harbour. We rigged preventers for the following wind, blowing around 26 knots. Sailing off the wind was frightening at times, especially crossing the shipping channel used by large cargo vessels.
On arrival, Aubrey made spaghetti bolognese. Rita wanted to walk into the centre for a shop, and I joined her. I liked Hamble ashore. Little crooked two-storey houses, packed together on the hills, give it an unusual, cosy atmosphere. The cemetery, though… Straight out of Diablo II, with a Celtic touch. I’d never seen anything like it in real life.
We said goodbye to Alexei. Later, Yulia @Yulia_Yakusheva from Moscow arrived in his place, and we went to a restaurant for fish and chips. In the evening, provisions arrived from the shop, while Danila stitched whippings onto the rope ends.
Now we have three Day Skipper and two Coastal Skipper students, and there’ll be more to learn.
#training #kabestan
Passage weather
School day
Practice: November 10
10 November 2022. Day seven. Breakfast was Aubrey’s shakshuka with Slava’s toast. The Coastal Skipper students began planning a passage to Thornham Marina, Chichester, where our instructor would need to deliver the yacht. The Day Skipper students planned the route to an anchorage in Osborne Bay. Yulia lost the coin toss and became skipper on her very first day. She had to keep the log, assign the crew’s jobs, and handle berthing and departure herself.
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The Coastal Skipper students began planning a passage to Thornham Marina, Chichester, where our instructor would need to deliver the yacht. The Day Skipper students planned the route to an anchorage in Osborne Bay.
Yulia lost the coin toss and became skipper on her very first day. She had to keep the log, assign the crew’s jobs, and handle berthing and departure herself.
We covered the roughly 7.5 miles to the anchorage on one tack. Cup soups, heated frozen lasagne and a chopped salad, with Danila substituting apples for tomatoes.
After a rest, the Coastal students planned the 15-nautical-mile return to Ocean Village Marina, including a night entry. Back ashore, we went to Spoons, where my terrible burger gave everyone at the table a laugh.
That evening, after tea, Danila suggested discussing how we would leave our pontoon. From then on, we did it every day.
#training #kabestan
Passage weather
School day
Practice: November 11
11 November 2022. Day eight. Chopped fruit doesn’t rescue porridge. Toast with strawberry jam does. My turn as skipper. I planned the 7.5-mile passage from Ocean Village to Mercury Yacht Harbour in Hamble. After departure, Aubrey had each of us turn the boat in her own length and come alongside a pier. At the tanker terminal, we hove to and put the kettle on. Warmed up, we sailed up the river towards the marina to practise berthing in confined spaces.
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My turn as skipper. I planned the 7.5-mile passage from Ocean Village to Mercury Yacht Harbour in Hamble. After departure, Aubrey had each of us turn the boat in her own length and come alongside a pier. At the tanker terminal, we hove to and put the kettle on. Warmed up, we sailed up the river towards the marina to practise berthing in confined spaces.
Reheated chicken and salad for lunch.
Next, stern-to berthing with a 90-degree turn. Danila gave me invaluable advice: use only just enough speed to keep the boat under control. Then we approached a buoy against the current, stopped completely, and ferry-glided to a pontoon, where we warmed up with more tea. An hour later, it was dark. Aubrey took the wheel and demonstrated night navigation.
Ravioli for dinner at Hamble Marina. Margarita and Yulia were the next skippers: Rita would take us from Hamble to Newtown, and Yulia from Newtown to Yarmouth.
#training #kabestan
Passage weather
School day
Practice: November 12
12 November 2022. Day nine. Breakfast: a boiled egg, toast, jam, cheese and bananas. I managed a quick visit to the chandlery for a couple of sailing books and a Gill rigging knife. We left Hamble with the wind in our faces. It took several tacks before we could head for Newtown. A pair of kayakers paddled along in our wake. Wind 12–16 knots. We spent a while looking for the right cardinal mark, having mistaken north for east beneath a layer of shellfish.
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We left Hamble with the wind in our faces. It took several tacks before we could head for Newtown. A pair of kayakers paddled along in our wake. Wind 12–16 knots. We spent a while looking for the right cardinal mark, having mistaken north for east beneath a layer of shellfish.
We anchored. Chopped salad, pies in the oven, boiling water for cup soups. Sunny and peaceful. The sort of day when you don’t want to do anything.
An hour later, we rigged a preventer and headed off the wind for Yarmouth. A strong ebb met us, too much to overcome under sail. We berthed alongside other yachts.
There was time to wander the tourist streets and visit a bar and a shop. Whether from sunburn or a wind-chapped face, I felt painfully tired.
Danila made pasta for dinner from ingredients bought in town.
#training #kabestan
Passage weather
School day
Practice: November 13
13 November 2022. Day ten. Breakfast was a potato and tomato omelette, shakshuka-style. Aubrey covered all the saloon windows and forbade the Coastal students from going on deck. Their task was blind navigation: get us from Yarmouth to the mouth of the River Itchen. We Day Skipper students had to handle the boat ourselves, hold a course, make turns and observe the COLREGs.
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Aubrey covered all the saloon windows and forbade the Coastal students from going on deck. Their task was blind navigation: get us from Yarmouth to the mouth of the River Itchen. We Day Skipper students had to handle the boat ourselves, hold a course, make turns and observe the COLREGs. We could tell the Coastal students only the compass heading, distance run on the log, and any buoys within 50 metres. They had a tough time.
Once there, we practised man overboard by heaving to. Then we anchored and had quiche and salad for lunch.
Then we swapped. The Day Skipper students went below to navigate to Cowes. We weren’t given an exact starting position, so we used every position-fixing technique we could.
We fuelled up in town, then had a lecture on COLREGs and electronic navigation aids. Dinner was yesterday’s pasta and frozen rice with bean chilli.
#training #kabestan
Passage weather
School day
Practice: November 14
14 November 2022. Day eleven. Porridge with fruit and honey. Sadly, our last chance to discuss how little we liked it. We walked round Cowes. I bought British sweets and popped into a bookshop and a couple of chandleries. At ten, we set off for Mercury. Margarita volunteered as skipper. Danila had a coach to catch at three, and the wind barely reached five knots, so we motored all the way. On arrival, we heated pies for lunch, changed and packed.
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We walked round Cowes. I bought British sweets and popped into a bookshop and a couple of chandleries. At ten, we set off for Mercury. Margarita volunteered as skipper. Danila had a coach to catch at three, and the wind barely reached five knots, so we motored all the way.
On arrival, we heated pies for lunch, changed and packed. Aubrey started cleaning the yacht while we went to Force 4 Chandlery in Hamble for logbooks. Back aboard, we got his signature and our certificates. All that remained was to call a taxi and leave Night Owl for good.
Sitting in the front seat in left-hand traffic hurts. Mentally. I stayed at a hotel near Heathrow and spent the night with the room spinning from the lingering motion of the sea.
After I flew home, Masha and I celebrated the course at a little Mexican restaurant nearby. I’m now officially an RYA Day Skipper.
#training #documents #kabestan
Passage weather