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The passage

A voyage through the Skagerrak. Part 7. Fuglevik → Oslo

A voyage through the Skagerrak. Part 7. Fuglevik → Oslo

A different forecast


23 June, a high and almost no wind forecast. Prepared for eight hours motoring to Oslo.

A gift instead: following wind almost throughout, Rassvet sometimes reaching six knots. Rocky ridges both sides, surprisingly little large traffic. Thirty-five miles, one ferry, one cargo ship, one liner. Kiel or Solent would bring dozens.

Local yachts comfortably near mid-channel. Natural that day, but I watched AIS and astern. A helicopter rescue exercise, someone lowered to a boat.

In the centre


Eight hours to central Oslo marina. A staff member met us on the pontoon: after buoys, rings and fingers, almost service.

Eighteen NOK per foot, about €50 a night for twenty-nine feet. Excessive at first; then suburban transport, free showers and laundry, nearby shop, ten minutes to museums. Perhaps cheaper overall.

Norwegian essentials sampled: Solo like Fanta with fizzy vitamin C; Kvikk close to KitKat; brunost like caramelised condensed milk, best with Polarbrød. By slice three, I understood thin slicing.

The car


Next morning, the starboard genoa car’s locking pin had torn out. No fixing to the track, no reliable sheet-block positioning.

Calliper first: rail width and profile, hole diameters, car dimensions, sent to sellers. Several conversations found an 800 NOK J/70 car.

It didn’t fit.

Careful Dremel removal of metal at the edges. Sunglasses stopped big particles; proper enclosed goggles and a mask would have been right. Original block incompatible too. Another trip across Oslo’s outskirts for a Harken block.

About six hours and €200: half the city, metal shavings, two shop trips, two petrol-station hot dogs and Cokes.

An adapted compromise, beyond a standard replacement. Checked free travel, full pin engagement, block and fixings moving under load without binding.

About 380 miles from Germany to Oslo, first full day hunting a genoa car: perfectly consistent travel. Another small failure solved the usual way: money, time, a tool previously considered optional.

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