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Back to Lübeck. Part 2
Heiligenhafen — Grömitz — Am Stau
After a day’s rest in Heiligenhafen, offshore again. David, not fully recovered, debated going home or finishing. Curiosity won; he stayed.
Towards Grömitz
8 October 2025, towards the small resort of Grömitz. Grey but dry morning, light south-westerly about eight knots. Beneath the Fehmarn bridge, then south, then south-west a couple of hours later.
Wind dead ahead, sails useless. Engine on. Grömitz at three, twenty-six miles in six hours.
A cosy, almost toy-like town. Tidy waterfront, smooth sandy beach, fish smells from dozens of cafés. A huge Ferris wheel turned ashore; suddenly, hundreds of lights lit up. A reminder that autumn needn’t be dull here.
Rain sent us back aboard. Buckwheat with a Maggi cube and tinned meat in tomato sauce. No haute cuisine; ideal after six hours motoring.
Back to Lübeck Bay
10am departure on 9 October. Unbroken sunshine making up for yesterday. Fifteen knots, broad reach, full sail.
An astonishingly quiet sea, a feeling of inner comfort. Lübeck Bay is special: my first independent trips began here. Returning feels like home; familiar water, familiar shores.
Before Travemünde, sails down, engine on for the Trave. Its bends bring either headwind or following wind. Today, naturally, headwind.
Winter and goodbyes
Evening berthing. David helped remove and fold the sails, dismantle the boom and check fixings. Then I met harbourmaster and yard staff about winter storage and the season’s growing jobs list.
Kiel to Lübeck done: eighty-six miles in four days. Despite seasickness, David now wanted his own boat. Even nausea can’t prevent love for the sea beneath moonlight and salt air.
So much food left that I joked we could eat through winter without buying more.
#passage
Heiligenhafen — Grömitz — Am Stau
After a day’s rest in Heiligenhafen, offshore again. David, not fully recovered, debated going home or finishing. Curiosity won; he stayed.
Towards Grömitz
8 October 2025, towards the small resort of Grömitz. Grey but dry morning, light south-westerly about eight knots. Beneath the Fehmarn bridge, then south, then south-west a couple of hours later.
Wind dead ahead, sails useless. Engine on. Grömitz at three, twenty-six miles in six hours.
A cosy, almost toy-like town. Tidy waterfront, smooth sandy beach, fish smells from dozens of cafés. A huge Ferris wheel turned ashore; suddenly, hundreds of lights lit up. A reminder that autumn needn’t be dull here.
Rain sent us back aboard. Buckwheat with a Maggi cube and tinned meat in tomato sauce. No haute cuisine; ideal after six hours motoring.
Back to Lübeck Bay
10am departure on 9 October. Unbroken sunshine making up for yesterday. Fifteen knots, broad reach, full sail.
An astonishingly quiet sea, a feeling of inner comfort. Lübeck Bay is special: my first independent trips began here. Returning feels like home; familiar water, familiar shores.
Before Travemünde, sails down, engine on for the Trave. Its bends bring either headwind or following wind. Today, naturally, headwind.
Winter and goodbyes
Evening berthing. David helped remove and fold the sails, dismantle the boom and check fixings. Then I met harbourmaster and yard staff about winter storage and the season’s growing jobs list.
Kiel to Lübeck done: eighty-six miles in four days. Despite seasickness, David now wanted his own boat. Even nausea can’t prevent love for the sea beneath moonlight and salt air.
So much food left that I joked we could eat through winter without buying more.
#passage
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