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In 2024, Kieler Woche ran from 22 to 30 June. One of the world’s largest sailing festivals, transforming the city from the station to its farthest streets. This year, 3.5 million visitors, about 3,500 of them sailors. Last year I hadn’t liked it at all, mainly because of the crowds. People in the comments and at work disagreed, advising me to avoid the centre.
I’d arranged with Grigory from Meerbär to meet on Sunday, 23 June, near Sporthafen Wik. That day, Kiel’s naval base opens its gates to everyone from eleven to five.
Busy, but bearable. An enormous site. Along the quays were vessels of all kinds: a three-masted sail-training ship, buoy tenders, police and customs boats, tankers and landing ships. Plenty of nationalities too: Colombia, Spain, Poland, the Netherlands, Denmark, Norway, the US and, of course, Germany. Most ships were open to visitors, which created queues. Some let you wander; others offered guided tours.
There were plenty of food stalls, paid separately, plus military equipment ashore: two helicopters, a tank, howitzer and armoured personnel carrier. Every half-hour, a SAR helicopter took off to demonstrate water rescues and manoeuvres over the visitors.
Afterwards, we walked to Meerbär, and Grigory showed us round. An excellent German-built sailing yacht with an unusual layout. The amount of work her current owner puts into her deserves particular admiration.
From Meerbär, we walked the waterfront towards the centre. Approaching from the north really is quieter. The crowds build gradually; just stop before the main throng. The festival came down to endless fast-food and alcohol stalls, interspersed with live-music stages. Not bad, actually.
#notes
I’d arranged with Grigory from Meerbär to meet on Sunday, 23 June, near Sporthafen Wik. That day, Kiel’s naval base opens its gates to everyone from eleven to five.
Busy, but bearable. An enormous site. Along the quays were vessels of all kinds: a three-masted sail-training ship, buoy tenders, police and customs boats, tankers and landing ships. Plenty of nationalities too: Colombia, Spain, Poland, the Netherlands, Denmark, Norway, the US and, of course, Germany. Most ships were open to visitors, which created queues. Some let you wander; others offered guided tours.
There were plenty of food stalls, paid separately, plus military equipment ashore: two helicopters, a tank, howitzer and armoured personnel carrier. Every half-hour, a SAR helicopter took off to demonstrate water rescues and manoeuvres over the visitors.
Afterwards, we walked to Meerbär, and Grigory showed us round. An excellent German-built sailing yacht with an unusual layout. The amount of work her current owner puts into her deserves particular admiration.
From Meerbär, we walked the waterfront towards the centre. Approaching from the north really is quieter. The crowds build gradually; just stop before the main throng. The festival came down to endless fast-food and alcohol stalls, interspersed with live-music stages. Not bad, actually.
#notes
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